~  Jacques Hobč started  his jewelry business in 1887 in Paris. He was a master goldsmith and was well known for his exceptional work throughout western Europe. At the turn of the century, his son, William, began selling costumes made in Germany to Florence Ziegfeld, for the famous "Ziegfeld Follies". When Mr. Ziegfeld asked if William could also provide flashy jewelry to go along with the costumes - something the audience would be able to see - William was the right man to ask! Hence, Hobč began its long and celebrated history designing and making "costume jewelry", the term for which, by the way, their family lore claims credit!

~ And these gold plated earrings are an example of jewelry among their very earliest production, which makes them important from a collector's standpoint. The term "paste" refers to the clear rhinestones. Paste stones are different than today's rhinestones. Paste stones have a high lead content in the glass, therefore their refractory capacity is higher, more closely resembling diamonds.

~ In the 18th and 19th centuries, diamonds were frequently faceted in the "cushion cut", "rose cut" or "old mine cut" to maximize a stone's refraction of light. The culet ("culet" means the base, or bottom, of the stone) was cut flat so that it could be securely seated and/or glued into its setting. In those days, jewelers would set real diamonds using a dot of black tar or pitch on the bottom of the stone. Hence, when designers began imitating diamonds, they did likewise. There is actually a collector's term for this rare and beautiful costume jewelry, "Black Dot Paste". Look at the last photo above. Can you see the black dot at the back of each stone (on the right hand side). It is only detectable at a certain angle; for the most part, the dots are not visible.  To make a mirror, you paint one side of clear glass with black paint, right? In this example, just a tiny, dark dot, coupled with a very high lead content in the glass makes for exceedingly brilliant stones. The camera can't convey this, any more than if I show you a photo of water, you'll experience "wet". You have to see these earrings in person to appreciate their fire power.

~ The earrings are made of brass, with stamped brass leaves and vines in a grape motif. The elements have been "sewn" onto the frame by hand with brass wire.

~ They are clips and measure 1.75" high and almost 1" wide.

~ Both earrings are signed Hobč.

c. 1910, best guess, in excellent vintage condition.

Price = $235.00 earrs, Art Nouv, d-j