Jewelry Manufacturers Hall of Fame

 ~ A brief profile of each jewelry manufacturer found at Fabulous Facets ~

Accessocraft, 1930 - closed 1998:

"Unusual gothic designs highly popular in the 1960's.  Many items have a Renaissance, Victorian, Art Nouveau, of Rococo style.  Use of antique gold-tone or bronzed metals with unusual stones.  Many of the 1930's pieces had a decidedly Deco look."** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Art (ModeArt), late 1940's - 1980:

"Art jewelry can be found in a broad range of designs and quality, and like Florenza and Hollycraft jewelry, is well under priced and not fully appreciated.   Some of the Art jewelry is similar to Florenza jewelry, resembling Victorian and Renaissance Revival jewelry.  These pieces employ quality, uniquely colored rhinestones combined with the fine filigree or stamped metalwork.  These and figural pins, some of which are pave set in a multitude of colors, are becoming very collectible and shall continue to rise in prices."* [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Avon, 1886 to present:

"Founded by D.H. McConnell, Sr. as California Perfume Company, Avon line of jewelry was introduced in the late 1920's;  the company changed its name to Avon Products, Inc. in 1930.... Avon jewelry varies in quality from cheaply made jewelry to interesting pieces that are comparable to better Sarah Coventry and average Coro jewelry.   The jewelry is not widely collected, but is sought by collectors of Avon products."*  [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Barclay (not McClelland Barclay), 1930's to 1940's:

Signed pieces are uncommon.  Somewhat average quality of jewelry, comparable to average Coro or Lisner.  Not much is known about this company which operated for a very brief period. [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Les Bernard (see also Vogue), 1936 - 1996:

"Vogue was founded by Harold Shapiro and two other partners in  1936.   The Shapiro family ended their association with Vogue in 1962;  however, the Vogue name continued until the mid-1970's.  Following the family tradition, Bernard Shapiro, Harold's son, founded the Les Bernard operation in 1963.

Les Bernard was a pioneer in jewelry designs featuring rhinestones with marcasites.   Whereas the backs of rhinestones are pointed, those of marcasites are flat.   Consequently working with them required intensive model-making, with different settings for each marcasite stone as opposed to the settings necessary for rhinestones,   To mix the two obviously involved a labor-intensive task, making these pieces far more involved to produce that they might, at first glance, appear." ****  This layout work was "done by Bernard Shapiro's master partner, Lester Joy - hence the name 'Les Bernard'."  **** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Bogoff, 1946 - 1959:

"Bogoff jewelry displays elegant and graceful designs employing top quality rhinestones with tremendous glitter and reflections.  The stones are usually set on rhodium plated or silvertone metal, demonstrating fine workmanship.... The jewelry must have been manufactured in relatively limited quantities since it is not very common in the collectible market....  Because of its good quality and attractive designs, Bogoff jewelry will continue to rise in prices.* [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Boucher, 1937 - 1971:

"Marcel Boucher, possibly the greatest designer and producer of costume jewelry in America, was born in France and trained as an apprentice to Cartier.  He emigrated to the Unites States in the early 1920's and during the early 1930's designed jewelry for the Mazer Brothers in New York.  In 1937, he established the Marcel Boucher and Cie Company in New York.  Boucher produced the most exquisite costume jewelry, unsurpassed by any other, until it became a subsidiary of the Dovorn Industries, a watch manufacturing company in 1972.

Boucher's jewelry reflected the classical tradition with highly creative and imaginative designs utilizing excellent rhinestones resembling gemstones.   Technically superb with excellent metalwork, his costume jewelry can easily be mistaken for the 'real thing'....

Marcel Boucher's talent and creativity, placing him among the very best of costume jewelry designers and producers, are just beginning to be appreciated.  Accordingly, all of his jewelry is collectible with expected rise in prices."* [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

BSK, approx. 1948 - early 1970's:

"BSK is of average quality jewelry, some with interesting and original designs....   BSK jewelry is not rare, but neither is there an abundance of it on the market.   It normally sells at low to middle price ranges." * Very little is known about this company. [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Carnegie,  1918 - 1976:

Hattie Carnegie was born in Vienna in 1886... While in her teens, the family emigrated to the U.S.  In the early 1900's, she ventured into retail apparel business by opening several dress and hat shops in New York City.  Her success led in 1918 to the founding of the Hattie Carnegie, Inc....  She also began manufacturing jewelry to compliment her dresses....

Almost from the beginning, Carnegie's boutiques were frequented by the rich and famous..., including Joan Crawford.  In relative prices, her jewelry was always expensive.  All Carnegie jewelry is highly collectible...." *

"Whimsical designs that often made the best use of unusual combinations of rhinestones, enameling, simulated pearls, beads and other materials.  Her line of Oriental influenced jewelry and figurals are highly collectible". ** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Carolee, 1973 - present:

"Known for very classic designs of high quality, Carolee's "Duchess of Windsor" inspired jewelry from the 1980's is much sought-after today." ** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Castlecliff, 1918 - 1977:

"Founded by Clifford Furst in New York City, Castlecliff was a highly respected name in the jewelry industry, and its beauty was just as highly prized by women then as it is by those lucky enough to find a piece now.  Sold in only the finest departments stores, Castlecliff was impeccably produced in bold yet startlingly intricate designs.   The quality is obvious, even to the untrained eye."*** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Caviness, 1945 - not known; Caviness died in 1983:

"Unusual combinations of colors and stones.  All Caviness items have eye-catching appeal (even the simple strands of beads!).  Rare or hard to find, due to Caviness' items being sold only in exclusive specialty shops and boutiques." ** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Craft, made by Gem-Craft Corporation, 1948--present:
Jewelry marked Craft also appeared on cards marked Gemelli;
Owned by Gene & Ron Verri--Providence/Cranston, RI;
Company also made jewelry for Kenneth J. Lane, Capri, R. Mandle, Tancer, Kramer, & Cadoro (this information is from Illusion Jewels, webmistress, Dotty Stringfield, and research experts, Pat Seal and Dotty Stringfield) [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]
 

Chanel, 1914 - 1939 & 1954 - present:

"Astounding items often with a Byzantine or Renaissance flair.  Many items have the look of India.  Best known for her 'poured glass' jewelry by Gripoux, Maltese cross cuffs designed by Verdura, and an abundance of ropes of simulated pearls and gold-tone chains." **  

"In 1978, only seven short years after Coco Chanel's death, Christie's in London auctioned her costume jewelry, fetching prices comparable to those of precious gems and gold - indeed a tribute to the respect and awe the Chanel name continues to inspire."   *** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Ciner,  1892 - present:

Ciner Manufacturing Company, a family-owned enterprise, was founded by Emanuel Ciner in 1892, producing expensive fine jewelry.  Ciner began making costume jewelry in 1931 and is still in business.  The company produced a broad range of pieces resembling fine jewelry and marketed them through select, high-priced stores.  Ciner jewelry is characterized by beautiful designs, superbly executed by employing high quality small stones in a variety of colors,  turquoise, and pearls, combined with superior gold plate metalwork. "  *

"Opulent stones that glisten like real gemstones share the limelight with more classic yet equally lovely designs.  As would be expected in jewelry of such fine quality, the prime supplier of stones was Swarovski.  The pearls - especially made for Ciner by Japanese artisans -  are glass-based beads that have been coated many times with a luminescent finish that gives them the beauty of cultured pearls."   *** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Coro, 1901 - 1979 (still operates in Canada):

Emanuel Cohn and Gerard Rosenberg opened a small shop in New York selling jewelry and personal accessories, later becoming known as "Coro".  The mark incorporates the first two letters of each partner's name....  By the mid 1920's, Coro was the largest manufacturer of costume jewelry with a work force of over 2,000....   The broad range of designs and immense volume of jewelry produced at all price levels - as low as fifty cent pins sold in five-and-dime stores to as high as hundred dollar pieces offered for sale in specialty shops - defies description in a brief essay.   Suffice to say that some rhinestone studded Coro jewelry can compare with the very best produced by the industry....  Early Coros, Duettes, figurals with a clear lucite central stone known as 'jelly belly', Mexican sterling pieces, some Corocrafts, most Vendomes (another Coro name), and well designed sets of the 1930 - 1950's are highly collectible."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

 Coro Trademark names: (the information in the following table comes from Illusion Jewels, webmistress, Dotty Stringfield, and research experts, Pat Seal and Dotty Stringfield)

        
   [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Danecraft, 1939 - present :

Victor Primavera founded Danecraft "in 1939, in Providence, R.I.  During WWII, the company changed its name to Felch and Co., with Victor Primavera as president.   After his death in 1977, the company changed its name again to Felch-Wehr Company.   The firm is still in business, manufacturing silver and vermeil jewelry which is marketed under the name Danecraft in better department stores.

Danecraft is known for quality silver jewelry with designs similar to the Scandinavian silver jewelry....  In the mid-1950's, a typical Danecraft sterling set sold for $25.00 - $35.00, while a pair of earrings had an average price of $6.00 - $10.00."   * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

DeLizza and Elster ("Juliana", "Tara", "Gloria"), Harold Elster (died in 1963) & William DeLizza, New York 1947-1990:

Information from IllusionJewels.com:

Mark:   "Juliana Original" on paper hang tag was used in 1967-1968. Founded by William DeLizza & Harold Elster in NYC
        Made jewelry marked with "Gloria" hang-tags for Gloria Jewelry
        Made jewelry marked with "Tara" hang-tags and "Tara" mark for Fred Lubwold
        The name "Juliana" was Mr. DeLizza's mother's name.

Juliana was only manufactured for approximately 2 years.

The following research on Juliana was obtained from The Junkyard Jeweler:

Only about 2000 pieces of Juliana vintage costume jewelry  were ever made under that name.  The first year the items were hang tagged was in 1967. The Juliana jewelry company was in production from 1967-1968,  with a showroom on Fifth Avenue in NYC. Their Juliana bracelets were readily identifiable by use of the standard five-link construction. However, five link bracelets were not the only style that D&E made. Flat welded settings with rhinestone chain (often seen in Weiss bracelets) were also common. Toggle clasps were sometimes used. Flowers, leaf findings, and filigree balls were also typically used.  D&E changed the size proportions as fashion dictated, with colors following trends.  There were no particular pin mechanisms used; they alternated between 2 part and 3 part (trade terms) but  Frank DeLizza has also stated that they used the V-shape ("Butterfly") and bar-shape pin mechanisms with their lower end jewelry. The five-link bracelets and their matching brooches (the more expensive pieces) would have the plated-in pin mechanisms,  not the V-shape or bar-shape. 

D&E also manufactured jewelry for Coro. William DeLizza had great designs with modulation and sweeping feathers and curves done in double deckers.  Coro was one of the customers (along with Garne, Kramer and Weiss) that wanted this line. While the exact dates are not confirmed yet,  I believe that the jewelry made for Coro may have been between circa 1949-1950s.  

D&E shared a floor at the Cable Building in NYC with "The Black Diamond King",   Mr. Franks who was the wholesaler for Weiss jewelry,  until they moved to their own building in Brooklyn in the 1950s.

The crystal aurora borealis drops with beads on top was a popular line developed in 1953.    This was also the year that D&E had a problem matching German stones with Austrians, the first stones they used.   This miss-match of colors turned into the magnificent combination of color that is the most sought after of all D&E open line jewelry,  known as "Juliana".

There is no way to document all the styles of JULIANA, since JULIANA (the company) tried many different styles to find one that would succeed.  During this time (1967-1968),  while only 2000 pieces of Juliana were being made,  D&E enjoyed a very successful era of making jewelry and belts for Kenneth J. Lane, and fabulous jewelry lines for others (including some Weiss and Coro).

Today, Juliana jewelry is highly collectible and prices have skyrocketed as collectors begin to appreciate the superior quality of designs and materials used in Juliana. Since none of the Juliana line was ever signed, and since, for the most part, the paper hang tags have long since disappeared, collectors have learned to identify Juliana by their design characteristics and architecture. Extraordinary in every way, and uncommon, future demand for this remarkable jewelry will continue to grow.  [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

DeMario, 1945 - 1965:

DeMario was founded in New York City in 1945....  DeMario jewelry is characterized by beautiful designs which often incorporate faceted beads, pearls, and rhinestones arranged in an array of harmonious colors....  The jewelry is relatively rare and enjoys high prices in the collectible market.  Rarity alone is not responsible for high prices;  recognized for superior craftsmanship and wonderful designs, the jewelry is treasured by collectors who are unwilling to part with their DeMario jewelry even at book prices."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

DeRosa, 1934 - 1970:

"DeRosa was founded by Ralph DeRosa in New York City, about 1935.  The company was among the early manufacturers of very high quality costume jewelry....   DeRosa jewelry exhibits unique designs, and superb craftsmanship.  Unusual stones and outstanding metalwork are combined in masterful creations unsurpassed by any other manufacturer of costume jewelry....  Much of DeRosa jewelry was not marked, and finding a signed piece is truly a collector's delight.  Accordingly, signed pieces command exceptionally high prices...."  *   [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

De Nicola,  late 1950's - 1970's:

"Another fine quality line of the era, De Nicola was founded by Jerry De Nicola in the late 1950's or early 1960's and became part of the Capri Jewelry Company during the last five years of its existence.  Pieces bearing the De Nicola name have not been made since the early 1970's, and are found only infrequently."  *** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Mimi di N, 1962 - present:

"Eye-catching jewelry, often in large scale - often considered fantasy jewelry.   High usage of glass cabochons and Byzantine-influenced settings.  Very dramatic and highly collectible."  ** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Eisenberg, 1914 - present:

Founded in Chicago in 1914 by Jonas Eisenberg who emigrated to the U.S. around 1880, the company originally produced high quality ready-to-wear clothing complimented by glittering accessories....  These jeweled accessories, employing the best of Austrian rhinestones provided by the Swarovski Company, created a complete and distinctive high fashion look for Eisenberg clothing.  Soon it became apparent that not only the clothing, but also the accessories, bedazzled the customers.  Thus began the production and marketing of Eisenberg jewelry about 1930....  Eisenberg jewelry has not only beautiful and elegant designs, but also quality materials, superior workmanship, and the best shimmering stones in the industry.  The jewelry was never sold at low prices, and the 1950's advertisements carry pieces of $10.00 to $30.00 per piece.

Early Eisenbergs were not marked, but around 1935, the company used the mark 'Eisenberg Original'.  This mark was used from 1935 - 1945.  During WWII, because of government restrictions [on materials], the company used sterling silver (1941-1945).   Another mark, script letter E, was also used during the war years....   Eisenberg Ice in block letters was used during 1945 - 1958 period.  The jewelry manufactured during 1958 - 1970 period was not generally marked.  The company began using Eisenberg Ice in script letters in 1970, but many pieces were not marked and carried only a tag.  All Eisenberg is collectible and should rise in value...." *  [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Eugene, 1950 - 1960:

"Eugene worked as a designer for Miriam Haskell before manufacturing jewelry under his own name around 1950....  The jewelry must have been produced in limited quantities since it is relatively rare today." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Florenza, late 1940's - late 1981:

Florenza jewelry has distinctive designs inspired by Renaissance Revival jewelry which was so favored during the Victorian era.   The jewelry exhibits excellent metalwork, frequently in antiqued gold-tone, ornamented by distinct and superior rhinestones of pastel, frosted, and aurora colors....  Put simply, Florenza jewelry is characterized with quality workmanship, quality materials and quality designs." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Givenchy, 1952 - present:

Huburt de Givenchy was a designer for Schiaparelli from 1949 to 1951.  At the age of only 24, he opened his own couture house in 1952. His designs are world famous for "classic design work in large scale.  Lots of use of gold plating, lucite, and other plastics."  His work is highly collectible now.** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Hagler, Stanley, 1953 - 1996:

"Large and imaginative jewelry often created of filigree and clusters of simulated seed, freshwater, and baroque pearls."**   "In the early 50's, Stanley Hagler designed a bracelet for the Duchess of Windsor on a whim....  Each year, Swarovski gave out Great Designs in Jewelry awards for pieces that employed Swarovski crystals.  Hagler won 11 of them! Stan's pieces were often large in scale.  He varied the pieces according to the clothing fashion.... The name [plates] were smaller or larger depending on the size of the piece. A Collector can't judge the decade in which a piece was made by the size of the signature."***** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Har Jewelry:

There is almost no information on the company that made Har jewelry, (short for Hargo Jewelry Co. of NY, other than the fact that it was made for a very short period of time, in the 1950s to the mid-1960s.  "Har jewelry has interesting, exotic, and  fantastical designs, some pieces showing Oriental influence. All of Har jewelry reflects quality workmanship and fine metalwork. It is relatively scarce with above average price range. The jewelry showing Oriental motifs or extensive enamel work is rare and commands higher prices.""* Highly collectible. [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Miriam Haskell, 1924 - present:

"From the boldest to the most delicate, each piece [of Haskell] commands our attention and respect.  For Miriam Haskell's fertile imagination and love of her craft added a new dimension to fashion jewelry.  The results were a unique melding of innovative design and tasteful application into an exquisite piece of art."  ***

"After World War II, the renowned Haskell pearls came from a small glass manufacturer in Japan.  All were hand made, even the seed pear;s, with the magnificent baroque pearls supplied to Haskell exclusively....  In 1990, the business was sold to Frank Fialkoff and, under the name Haskell Jewels Ltd., beautiful jewelry continues to be produced in much the same fashion as the earlier lines.  All pieces are still hand set, with many boasting an antique Russian gold finish in the tradition of Haskell's fine vintage designs."  **** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Hobe, 1887 - present:

The history of Hobe can be traced back several generations to mid-19th century Paris and Jacques Hobe, a reputed master goldsmith recognized throughout Western Europe as a producer of fine jewelry.  Jacques Hobe had three sons who continued the tradition of making superior fine jewelry....  His son, William Hobe, went a step farther and made the name Hobe famous for its mass-produced and elegant costume jewelry....  According to the legend,  William Hobe, working as a representative of a German company selling theatrical costumes, comes to New York and approaches Florence Ziegfeld to purchase Hobe's costumes for the famed Ziegfeld Follies.  Florence places a large order for the costumes, but also asks William to create inexpensive but real looking jewelry to complement the showgirls' costumes.  Thus begins William Hobe's venture in America and the founding of a firm to produce costume jewelry.  According to the same legend perpetuated by the Hobe family, the term "costume jewelry" was first used by Florence Ziegfeld whenever he referred to the jewelry purchased from William for his showgirls.

Hobe jewelry demonstrates excellent and elegant designs with high quality stones embellishing superior silver or gold plated metalwork.  The workmanship is excellent especially on its reproductions of antique jewelry, such as the replicas of the jewelry of the European courts....   During the 1950's, Hobe was the jewelry of choice in Hollywood, favored by many producers and movie stars, and used to compliment the costumes of actresses in movies and fashion models in advertising promotions.  Hobe advertisements claimed that their jewelry was handmade in the entirety, in platinum, gold or sterling.  Without a doubt, Hobe is among the very best of costume jewelry manufacturers in America."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Hollycraft, 1948 - 1971:

"Hollycraft jewelry exhibits beautiful designs, well executed, employing a rainbow of excellent and distinctive rhinestones, sometimes accented with enamel work.   Rhinestones used on Hollycraft jewelry are... usually of pastel colors with brilliant glow emanating from the depth of the stones, and extremely difficult to replace.   Fortunately, Hollycraft jewelry is not only marked but also dated.  It is very enchanting and collectible jewelry and... yet to be fully appreciated."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

J.J., 1935 - present:

"Jonette Jewelry Company, East Providence, Rhode Island.  The company was founded in 1935 by Abraham Lisker....  He combined the names of his parents, John and Etta (hence the name Jonette)....  Today, the company has a workforce of approximately 80 employees....  J.J. Jewelry consists primarily of figural and novelty pins.  According to Mr. Lisker, the company moved in this direction during the early years because of its success in selling ballerina and mother-of-pearl figural pins....  Christmas pins were another J.J. specialty.  J.J. Jewelry is of average to better than average quality, marked J.J. with a copyright symbol before or after the name."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Joseff, 1938 - 1950's:

"Designer of much of the outstanding jewelry worn by top stars worn on and off-screen during Hollywood's heyday, it was indeed prophetic that the 'golden ages' of movies and costume jewelry coincided.  Both were magic!  One was the fantasy of the silver screen.  The other was the fantasy that Joseff wove when his magnificent designs adorned the costumes worn by gorgeous women and swashbuckling heroes in hundreds of epic films.

Eugene Joseff brought to his craft a superior knowledge of jewelry making along with great innovation of thought and design, and it was undoubtedly this melding of talents that makes his jewelry so unique....

Among the vast numbers of movies featuring Joseff's talents were such classics as Algiers, The Rains Came, Humoresque, Forever Amber, and the supreme epic of them all, Gone With the Wind!..

Thankfully, these jeweled masterpieces are now part of a three-million piece inventory that is solely controlled by [Joseff's wife] Joan Castle Joseff (Eugene Joseff died in an airplane crash in 1948).  It has been made available to the general public only in small quantities, and then usually for the benefit of charitable organizations.  For this reason, the Joseff designs admired and collected today are most likely those that were, for a relatively short period of time, produced specifically for sale in retail outlets."  *** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Juliana, see DeLizza & Elster

Kramer, 1943 - 1980:

Kramer Jewelry Creations was founded in New York in 1943 by Louis Kramer.  The company was in business until about 1980, and manufactured some of the most luxurious and artistic costume jewelry....  In general, the higher priced jewelry was usually marked, while the lower quality pieces  only carried a tag....  The company also produced jewelry for Christian Dior marked Kramer for Christian Dior."  *

Kramer created "beautiful jewelry, produced with an abundance of sparkling Austrian crystals in either clear or a variety of colors.  All rhinestones are of the highest quality".  ** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Kenneth J. Lane, early 1960's - present:

"Bold, monumental jewelry of exquisite design.  High quality that often takes its ideas from mythology, the zodiac, figurals, animals, and other bold designs with often striking and startling color combinations."  **

"... inspired by such diverse periods as the Ancient and Medieval, as well as the modernistic stylings of Art Deco..., Kenneth Jay Lane continues to reign as a costume jewelry icon.  With his name perhaps better known to the general public..., his jewelry commands attention and is always in great demand."  **** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Lisner, early 1904 - late 1985:

"D. Lisner and Company was founded in New York City in the early 1900's....   Much of Lisner's jewelry is similar to average Coro jewelry and the two companies competed in the average to  lower priced costume jewelry market.  Some Lisner jewelry is of much higher quality, employing superior aurora borealis and other rhinestones in "atomic" and other modern designs.  These command higher prices in the collectible market and... are popular in Europe....  Some of the Lisner jewelry employs colorful plastic inserts, sometimes accented with rhinestones, showing Art Deco influence which is underpriced in the market at this time." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Marvella, 1911 - 1982:

"Marvella is the trademark  initially used by Weinrich Bros. Co., ... founded about 1911 in Philadelphia....  It appears that the Weinrich Brothers were jobbers specializing in imitation jewelry and simulated pearls.  Marvella pearls, Inc. was the name adopted about 1950 and changed to Marvella, Inc. around 1965.

The post WWII Marvella jewelry consists primarily of simulated pearls, and plain and faceted beads jewelry.  The necklaces were made of multi-strands of brilliant faceted crystal beads, sometimes complimented by rhinestone roundels used as spacers.  The beads are iridescent aurora borealis of highest quality, changing to different colors under light.  Marvella advertisements of the 1950's emphasized this aspect of their faceted beads by actually listing the changing colors from red hot to cool pink with undercurrents of blues....  Marvella also offered simulated pearl jewelry as well as other types of jewelry combining beads or pearls with rhinestones, set on quality goldtone backings.  One type of jewelry which is relatively rare is the multi-strands of simulated pearls with a very large central color stone....   Marvella was purchased by Trifari in 1982....  Marvella used many different trademarks, most of which  include the company name or Marvell in a longer name, such as Marvellesque, Marvellette, and Marvellier." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Matisse, Ltd, please see Renoir

Mazer, or Jomaz, 1927 - 1970's:

"Mazer Brothers was founded by Joseph  Mazer and his brother, Lincoln, in 1927 in New York.  Later, the company changed its name to Joseph  Mazer and Company, Inc.....  Mazer manufactured high quality jewelry which sold at middle price range and is avidly sought in the collectible market today....  The early 1950's jewelry was designed by Andre Fleuridas, and Adolfo  designed some of the 1970's pieces for the company.  The earlier jewelry is marked Mazer Bros., while the later pieces are marked Mazer or Jomaz."  *

"Beautiful craftsmanship with spectacular use of rhinestones - often mimicking genuine jewelry." ** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

McClelland Barclay, 1935 - 1943:

"If you ever come across a piece of jewelry marked McClelland Barclay, buy it without hesitation, for if you don't, you may never see it again.  Barclay jewelry is not only extremely rare, but also among the very best costume jewelry ever made in America.  McClelland Barclay was born in St. Louis, Mo. on May 9, 1891.  He studied art with H. C. Ives, George Bridgman, and Thomas Fogarty and worked as an illustrator, sculptor, and painter.  Barclay did illustrations for Cosmopolitan and Good Housekeeping, as well as posters for ... the U.S. Navy on national preparedness, and a Marine Corps recruiting poster won national prizes.

Barclay extended his talents to jewelry making, and created beautiful sculpture-like jewelry in sterling silver and others set with rhinestones on gold plated metal.   Unfortunately, Barclay;s life came to an abrupt end during WWII, when a landing on which he was a passenger was destroyed by an enemy torpedo on July 18, 1943.  His body was never found and he was reported as missing in action."  *

The jewelry is known for its "highly stylized Art Deco designs.  Use of geometric shapes and rhinestones in colors of genuine stones.  Usually plated in gold, silver or rhodium."  **

[ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Monet, 1929 - present:

"Monet [was] founded in Providence, R.I. in 1929 by brothers Michael and Jay Chernow, under the name Monocraft.  They produced "gold plated monograms which were set on handbags in the store at the time of purchase.  The business expanded, and the company became recognized as a manufacturer of durable and quality goods.   The Chernow brothers, capitalizing on the advantage, began manufacturing jewelry under the name Monet around 1937.

Most Monet jewelry is made of gold plated metal with creative Art Moderne designs which were ahead of their time.  Much of the 1940's jewelry used silver as the base metal.   Monet was also responsible for several technological advancements in jewelry, such as the development if the friction ear clip which adjusted so it could firmly fit the ear without causing undue and painful pressure;  and the barrel clutch for pierced earrings which replaced the butterfly clutch.  The barrel clutch, now standard clutch in the industry, can be adjusted on the post to fit earlobes of any thickness, while the older clutches were not adjustable....  Any collection of costume jewelry should include at least a few Monet pieces because of their durable and lasting quality and modern designs which were far ahead of their time."  *

"With this 50-year history of successfully adapting to constantly changing images, it's not surprising that Monet remains a 'giant', in both quality and quantity, of the very volatile and competitive costume jewelry industry."  ***

Monet also produced jewelry for Yves Saint Laurent in the 1980's. [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Napier, 1875 - present:

"... the company's history can be traced back to 1875 when it was founded as Whitney and Rice in Attleboro, Mass., manufacturing silver products.  The firm changed hands an name in 882 and became Carpenter and Bliss, and shortly thereafter, E. A. Bliss and Co., Inc.  After rapid expansion in the late 1880's, the company moved to Meriden, Conn., in 1890.  After WWI, the firm shifted emphasis from silver products to production of modern jewelry.  James Napier became president in 1920 and the company adopted the name Napier-Bliss Co.  In 1922, the name was changed to Napier Company.  Napier is still in business today and a major producer of costume jewelry." *

"It's lengthy history makes Napier the oldest fashion jewelry house in the United States....  In the 1950's Napier presented First Lady Mamie Eisenhower with a specially designed elephant bracelet, a favorite piece that she wore almost daily....   Just as Mamie Eisenhower... treasured [her] Napier creation, so, too, have millions   of other women, past and present, who depend on Napier's designers to keep them well accessorized.  More than 100 years have not diminished their enthusiasm, and it's unlikely that the next hundred will be any different."  *** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Ora, 1921 -

"Ora was founded in Chicago by Oreste Agnini, the first jewelry manufacturing operation to be established in that city.   Born in Naples, Italy in 1885, Agnini displayed his artistic talents early.   He studied at the Conservatory of Music in Naples and became an accomplished violinist, later achieving the position of concert master for the Wurlitzer Orchestra. Emigrating to the U.S. in 1903, Agnini served as an Officer in the U.S. Air Force during WW I, and his drawing skills came to the fore as he hastily sketched his observations while behind enemy lines.

Agnini's partner in the jewelry manufacturing business was Ralph Singer. Initially the company was known as Agnini & Singer. All the stones were Czechoslovakian and purchased in Rhode Island... It was Agnini & Singer who were responsible for supplying many of the... pins and brooches so coveted on Eisenberg dresses, prior to the formation of the Eisenberg jewelry operation. A & S was also responsible for jewelry featuring the 1939 World's Fair symbol, as well as crowns for the Mardi Gras queens

"Early pieces of A & S jewelry had no stamping, and it is probable that many of the high quality, unsigned pieces displaying the delicate, Old World workmanship admired today are early examples of Oreste Agnini's work. In the late 1940's the business became known as ORA designs, and the ORA logo began appearing on the jewelry. The company is still in operation." ****

The following information was e-mailed to me from a family member of Ralph Singer: "In the late 40's the tradename ORA (combination of their first names) began to be used on the jewelry. And the information I occasionally see that Oreste Agnini handled the designs and Ralph Singer the Factory operations - that is not true. Both did both. I have hundreds of pieces designed by my father, Ralph Singer. Mr. Agnini's designs had a geometric look to them, and my father's a more fluid, floral look. But they crossed over sometimes into each other's style. My father introduced the heating device for vulcanizing rubber molds and also invented the method of joining necklace and bracelet pieces together by tooling prongs over small rings. ORA Marks on the pieces themselves began being used in the late 40s - no other mark on the piece itself has ever been used (at least as far as I know, when the Company was still 'in the family'). But I doubt the Smiths have made any changes to that. As far as "Ora Originals", "Ora Creations" and "Ora - Jewels of the Hour" (Ora means "hour" in Italian) - those have only been used on tags, boxes, cards for pins and earrings, etc."

The following information was e-mailed to me from Carole Smith, Vice President of the company: "Mr. Singer's son-in-law ran the company until 1984 and concentrated more on the Fraternal line than Mr. Singer. He sold the company to my father-in-law, Stanford B. Smith, in 1984, and he ran the company with his son, my husband - also Stan - until his death in 1992. My husband and I have continued production of the jewelry - both the exquisite Fashion line and the Fraternal line, which was started in the 1960's

[ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Panetta, 1945 - early 1980's:

"Fantastic jewelry with exquisite detail.  Designs ranged from rhinestone encrusted Art Deco styles to enameled figurals.  All very collectible."  **

"A tradition of quality and the real look in fine costume jewelry... that has been the hallmark of Panetta jewelry since it was established in New York City in 1945.   The Panetta magic started many years before, however, when Benedetto Panetta began his career as a jeweler at his shop in Naples, Italy.

Financial reverses and family illness played a major role in Panetta's emigration to the United States in 1901.  His expertise was immediately recognized, and for many years, he worked exclusively as a platinum jeweler.  The Great Depression, with its devastating effects on the economy, caused Panetta to expand his skills into the utilization of white metals.  It was a decision he never regretted since, because of his experience in working with platinum, he was able to bring a look of brilliant authenticity to costume pieces.  In an industry that was rapidly expanding, his skills became a precious commodity, with many costume jewelry manufacturers vying for his talents.  Trifari emerged the victor, and Benedetto Panetta became one of their chief modelmakers, contributing to the early, highly stylized and beautiful Trifari designs eagerly searched for today.

When Trifari moved their facilities from New York to Providence, Rhode Island, in the 1930's, Panetta chose not to uproot his family, opting instead to continue his modelmaking and designing skills with another highly regarded jewelry maker, Pennino Brothers.   Trifari, Pennino, and later his own company, Panetta Jewelry - Benedetto Panetta's skillful hands and creative mind contributed to the exquisite costume jewelry produced by all three of these golden age giants.  Few have equaled this enviable achievement, either before or since!...  For nearly half a century, Panetta jewelry has equaled and frequently exceeded the look of their platinum and gold counterparts, and it is not surprising that many affluent clients have chosen to wear Panetta designs instead of precious jewelry."*** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Pennino, 1926 - 1961:

"An outstanding 'golden age' contributor, background information on Pennino is, unfortunately, vague.  However, by the most rigid standards, their quality and design acumen rank Pennino with the very best in costume jewelry from the past."  *** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Reja, 1941 - 1953:

This company was founded under the name of Deja, but changed its name to Reja early on.  "Offering designs of elegance and high quality, Reja was founded by Sol Finkelstein in the early 1940's, with pieces sold primarily to boutiques and in relatively small quantities, accounting for their scarcity today. Uncover the name Reja and a treasure goes with it! The company was disbanded in the 1960's."**** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Renoir/Matisse, 1946 - 1964:

Renoir was famous for its jewelry made from copper. "Copper and tin were popular during the 1930's - 1950's period.  Copper, the choice metal during the Arts & Crafts Movement was frequently used in ... jewelry of the 1950's, replicating the hand-hammered look of earlier jewelry.... Several brands are highly collectible.... Renoir of California, Inc., founded in Los Angeles in 1946 by Jerry Fels,... created copper jewelry inspired by contemporary abstract and modern art trends. Another company, Matisse, Ltd., also founded in Los Angeles by Jerry Fels and family in 1952, manufactured copper jewelry with surface enamel work. Both firms were closed around 1964."* [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Nettie Rosenstein,  early 1935 - 1975:

As a small child, Austrian born Nettie (originally Nettie Rosencrans) emigrated to the United States with her family.  Her career began in 1927 in millinery but, as with other of her contemporaries, it wasn't long before her talents turned to couture and later into accessories.

In 1961, after several decades as one of America's premiere couturiers, Rosenstein decided to discontinue her fashion line, keeping only the jewelry and accessory branches of the business, which unfortunately became a short-lived endeavor.

Many of Rosenstein's finest jewelry offerings are to be found in the unusual sterling and enamel designs issued during the 1930's and 40's.  It's interesting to note that even during that period of slow economic recovery from a devastating economic depression, Rosenstein's jewelry was offered at prices equivalent to at least a week's pay, or more, for the average individual.  Viewing them today, one can understand why, for they are the epitome of high quality and strong, imaginative designs."  ****  [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Robert, or Original by Robert, 1942 - 1979:

"Robert, or Original by Robert, is the mark used by Fashioncraft Jewelry Company.    The firm was founded in New York City by Robert Levey, David Jaffe, and Irving Landsman.  Landsman left in 1951, and the company changed its name to Robert Originals, Inc. about 1960....    Most of the designs have natural and floral motifs employing faux pearls , colored glass, crystal beads, and quality imported rhinestones set on gilded filigree open wire and openwork mountings.  The 1940's advertisements claim that the jewelry was entirely hand crafted and so finely detailed that expert jewelers would often mistake them for genuine precious jewels.   Robert jewelry was never cheap; in the mid-1940's, a pin and earrings set would usually cost around $50.00.  The firm supplied jewelry to the motion picture industry. including the jewelry for the 1952 Oscar nominated Elia Kazan movie, "Viva Zapata", featuring Marlon Brando and Jean Peters.  Levey retired in 1975."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Sarah Coventry, 1949 - 1984:

"Founded in 1949 by Charles H. Stuart in Newark, N.Y., shortly after the establishment of sister company, Emmons Jewelers....  In the 1960's and 1970's, Coventry jewelry prices were comparable to Trifari and better than average Coro....   Better pieces are expected to rise in price and every collector should have at least a few pieces in their collection." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Yves Saint Laurent,   1959 - present:

"Yves Saint Laurent was born in Algeria in 1936 to French parents.  He became an apprentice with Dior at the age of 18, and a mere three years later, after the death of Dior in 1957, assumed responsibility for the line.... 

The first collection under the aegis of his own house appeared in 1962.  Three years later, the YSL enterprises became part of Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, and Saint Laurent departed on an entirely new venture, signaling his entrance into the 'ready-to-wear' market:  the YSL/Rive Gauche boutiques.  The first boutique opened in Paris in 1966, and by 1979 the Rive Gauche name had expanded to 160 similar operations worldwide....

In the 1970's, Saint Laurent frequently called upon the Schiaparelli look of decades before, making them his own by molding their somewhat angular lines to a more contemporary, softer silhouette.

And so, Saint Laurent's talents - not unlike those of his predecessors and contemporaries - happily reflect his own unique individualism and daring, and also the influence of other designers and mentors - from Chanel to Dior to Schiaparelli.

Cartier is the American licensee for Yves Saint Laurent in the U.S."  ***

"Saint Laurent's runway accessories are highly collectible.  Couture jewelry."  ** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Sandor (Sandor Goldberger), 1938 - 1972:

"Considered a prime innovator during this era, Sandor is credited with being one of the first to offer enameling in costume jewelry. Sandor jewelry is of very high quality and rarely found in the marketplace. Sandor's jewelry came in a wide variety of styles from figurals to dainty flowers.  All of Sandor's jewelry is highly collectible, but the enameled flowers seem especially so."**  [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Elsa Schiaparelli, late 1920's to 1973:

"Born in Rome in 1890, Elsa Schiaparelli ventured into the garment industry by opening her first couture house in Paris, soon expanding to London and New York City.  As an exceptionally talented and innovative designer, as well as an acute business woman, Schiaparelli became a major competitor of Coco Chanel in pre-war France, and played a significant role in the development of the fashion industry for several decades. 

...Schiaparelli expanded her business into manufacturing fashion jewelry... which she successfully continued in the U.S., after leaving France in 1940."  *

"Best known for her whimsical designs taking inspiration from nature, the circus, and the zodiac.  Often received her surrealistic inspiration from Salvador Dali.  Schiaparelli jewelry is often found with a wide variety of colored stone combinations.  Highly sought after and very collectible."  **

[ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Schreiner, 1939 - 1977:

"Unusual and distinctive jewelry which often utilized gun-metal plating, unusual stone cuts, inverted-set rhinestones, and unusual color combinations.   Stunning!"  **

"Shreiner pieces were never mass-produced and the attention they commanded in the media made extensive advertising unnecessary....  Their early stones were only Czechoslovakian origin.  Schreiner jewelry is highly regarded by serious collectors and is representative of some of the finest, and most admirable, vintage jewelry to be found today."  **** [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Staret, 1935 - 1947:

Originally known as the Star Novelty Company, Inc., Staret began making costume jewelry under the Staret name in 1940.  Staret operated in Chicago. The style and sometimes excessively showy shapes of costume jewelry stamped Staret recall the more famous jewels of Eisenberg & Sons.  [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Trifari (TKF, or Trifari, Krussman & Fishel), 1918 - present:

"The history of Trifari can be traced back to the mid-1800's in Naples, Italy and a small workshop founded by Luigi Trifari, a goldsmith and produced of fine jewelry. Luigi's grandson, Gustavo Trifari, born in 1883, learned the trade in his grandfather's workshop, before emigrating to America in 1904. For several years Gustavo worked as a designer... in New York City before establishing the firm of Trifari & Trifari about 1910, in partnership with his uncle.... The firm produced costume jewelry but lasted only two years, after which Gustavo founded his own company, Trifari.

In 1917, Leo Krussman joined the company as a sales director and later a partner, forming the Trifari and Krussman Company.... A third partner, Carl Fishel, an experienced and well known salesman, was added in the early 1920's, and the company changed its name to Trifari, Krussman & Fishel.

Trifari became one of the largest and best known producers of costume jewelry, manufacturing a broad range of jewelry at different price levels. Trifari jewelry displays superb designs and workmanship.  It has a distinctive look, resembling fine jewelry, which can easily be recognized by collectors. Much of this is due to the work of a great designer, Alfred Philippe, who worked and designed jewelry for Trifari from 1930 to 1968. As a designer of fine jewelry, including jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Philippe brought to Trifari many imaginative ideas and is largely responsible for the creation and development of Trifari's distinctive and classic look. There were also other well-known designers who joined Trifari: Jean Paris (1958 - 1965), Andre Boeut (1967 - 1979), both from Cartier, and Diane Love (1971 - 1974), who designed the company's modern and contemporary jewelry in the early 1970's. *

Trifari jewelry traverses all the styles that fashion jewelry possibly can. From the imaginative sterling vermeil figurals of the 1940's to its classic gold and silver-tone jewelry of today. The Trifari figurals, retro florals, and jelly-bellies from the 1930's and 40's are in high demand by today's collectors.**

The information in the following table comes from Illusion Jewels, webmistress and research expert, Pat Seal:

Mark: Jewels by Trifari with a crown over the "T" first used in March 1920.
Mark:   Trifari Le Touquet -- for sports jewelry -- used since 1929
Mark:   Parquet -- beach jewelry -- April 1929
Mark:   Gainsborough -- first used in 1932
Mark:   KTF 1935
Mark:   Trifari used from Dec. 1937
Mark:   Trifari --elongated--used since Dec. 1937.
Mark:   Trifari printed in tall, slim version, crown silhouette above the "T" -- 1930's--1940's .
Mark:   Trifari printed without elongated letters & different      crown. This was the most important logo 1940's--1950's.
Mark:   Trifari Pat. Pend -- 1940's

Sterling was used from 1942-1947, when Trifanium was introduced.

Mark:    Jewels by Trifari -- 1950's
Mark:   Orientique by Trifari -- 1950
Mark:   Trifari with solid crown & copyright mark metal Trifari "T" hang tag first used in 1954; changes made to tag design over the years.
"Tie-Ups" Aug. 1957
Mark: "Triege by Trifari", Sept. 1958
Mark: "Nautique" -- 1965
Mark: "Trifari" in cursive font, enclosed in a circle -- 1970's & 1980's.
Mark: "Trifari" in circle which contains the copyright mark --1980's.
Mark: "Trifari" on Rectangle with copyright mark on hang tags; no engraved marks on jewelry.
 

Alfred Phlippe joins as designer in 1930, retired in 1968.

1975 -- purchased by Hallmark.

[ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Van Dell, 1939 - present:

"Van Dell Corporation was founded in Providence, Rhode Island in 1943.  The firm manufactured sterling and gold plated jewelry set with rhinestones and other imitation stones simulating gemstones.  Van Dell also used both cultured and faux pearls.  The jewelry is usually of high quality with classically traditional designs resembling fine jewelry.  Van Dell jewelry is not cheap and enjoys high book prices, but because of the limited exposure in the collectible costume jewelry books, it can still be purchased at reasonable prices....  The author expects steady rise in prices in the future."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Vendome, 1944 - present:

"Vendome was established as a subsidiary of Coro to manufacture a superior line of jewelry.  The mark was used as early as 1944 on charm bracelets and faux pearl jewelry, but the Vendome line which began in the 1950's did not become popular until the early 1960's, largely due to beautiful designs introduced by Helen Marion, Vendome's principal designer.  Basically, Vendome replaced Corocraft, which, up to that time, marked the higher quality jewelry made by Coro.  Vendome jewelry used the best of imported rhinestones and faceted crystal beads.  The clarity and brilliance of the stones and top quality metalwork combined in artistically expressive designs were the main factors behind Vendome's success.  The jewelry is highly collectible and should continue to rise in prices." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Vogue, 1915 - early 1975:

"The trademark Vogue was first used by Park Importing Co., founded in New York City, about 1915.  The firm specialized in simulated pearls and beads jewelry.  But Vogue traded in the collectible market today was manufactured in the late 1930's to early 1970's by Harold Shapiro, and his two partners, Jack Gilbert and George Grant.  Actually, Shapiro left the company in 1961 and his son, Bernard, founded Les Bernard, Inc. in 1963.  Vogue jewelry is beautiful,  demonstrating original and innovative designs, and is relatively scarce in the collectible market, particularly the earlier 1930's - 1940's pieces." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Warner, 1950's - early 1970's:

"The background on Warner jewelry is scarce and incomplete.   Based on the designs and the materials used, the company was probably established in the 1950's by Joseph Warner, and continued operations into at least the early 1970's.   Warner jewelry exhibits quality workmanship, superior materials and stones, often mounted on japanned (black) metal settings....  Other manufacturers ... also used japanned metal backings and many... pieces do not demonstrate the workmanship or brilliant stones which distinguish the Warner pieces....  Warner jewelry is not very common and since it is also of better quality, it commands solid and above average prices in the collectible market."  * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Weiss, 1942 - 1971:

"Weiss Company was founded in New York City in 1942 by a former Coro employee, Albert Weiss.  The company flourished during the 1950's and 1960's, offering high quality costume jewelry with excellent Austrian rhinestones of exceptional quality and clarity.  Its beautiful rhinestones studded figural jewelry, such as Weiss butterflies and insects, is avidly sought by collectors....  Weiss jewelry, highly underrated and underpriced, is comparable to Eisenberg and Bogoff jewelry.   Without a doubt, the company manufactured some of the most beautiful and appealing rhinestone jewelry of the post WWII era.

Weiss prices are rising rapidly and soon collectors who have missed the chance to add this type of jewelry to their collection will regret not taking advantage of the opportunity." * [ Fabulous Facets HOME ]

Whiting & Davis Co., 1876 - present:

"C. W. Whiting began working as a young boy for a chain manufacturing company founded in 1876 by William Wade and Edward P. Davis.  As he learned the trade, he soon became a partner and eventually owner in 1907....  Famous for its silver [and gold] mesh handbags and purse accessories, the company also produced jewelry throughout most of this century, including high quality reproductions of antique jewelry.  As a silver manufacturer, most costume jewelry made by Whiting & Davis utilizes silver or silver plated metal and is usually signed with the company name, sometimes in a cartouche." * 

"Whiting & Davis continues to produce [distinctive jewelry items] today in Attleboro, Massachusetts, much to the pleasure and gratitude of contemporary women who appreciate the genteel beauty of days gone by.  There was a special aura to these delicate mesh pieces, and it is unlikely they will ever lose their popularity - and special magic!"  ***

*From the book, Costume Jewelry, A Practical Handbook & Value Guide, by Fred Rezazadeh (ISBN # 1-57432-013-0):

** From the book,  Collectible Costume Jewelry, Identification & Values, by Cherri Simonds (ISBN # 0-89145-762-3).  I highly recommend this book to collectors of costume jewelry.  It's very informative, well written, the photographs are top quality, and it's a beautiful book. 

*** From the book, Costume Jewelers, The Golden Age of Design, by Joanne Dubbs Ball (ISBN # 0-7643-0212-4)

**** From the book, Masterpieces of Costume Jewelry, by Ball & Torem (ISBN # 0-88740-900-8)

*****From the book, Costume Jewelry Identification and Price Guide, by Harrice Simons Miller, (ISBN # 0-380-7778-4)